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'On The Great Silk Road'

UK tour 2005

 

 



Tues 11th May
Today we embark on possibly our most exotic & bizarre British tour to date for we are, more than ever before, a touring troupe or circus; five Batties plus our soundman Rob, augmented by five Uzbek musicians and two dancers, a translator, three Scottish dancers/musicians and one 'assistant to the Uzbeks'. This extravaganza is effectively the return match of our tour in Uzbekistan in 2002, where we first met all these fantastic musicians (find the tour notes in the archive), and has been made possible by grants from the Scottish Arts Council, the English Arts Council and Visiting Arts, all coordinated by our manager, Robin Morton.

In the morning, Alasdair and I pick up the Uzbek musicians who have just arrived on the overnight train from London after flying to the U.K. from Tashkent. A beautiful day, we drive them, singing, through Holyrood park, bathed in sunshine to Temple for some breakfast, a photo-shoot, and a recording session. They record three tracks – in one take of course – before we take them to their accommodation for a brief sleep before an afternoon rehearsal and more photos for the press.



do you know 'Lady in Red?'

The first few days follow this pattern while we figure out what to play together. Luckily the weather smiles on us and we play outside for several days teaching each other a couple of tunes and drinking mountains of choi (tea).

Eventually it becomes Sunday, two days before the first concert, and the Uzbek dancers Saida and Nargiza have arrived from Uzbekistan as well as our own dancers – John, Donal, and Allison, fresh from the Sikorski School of Dancing and Deportment (“From Rhum to Rhumba in Five Easy Steps”). This is a kind of dress rehearsal and gives us a clue as to what form the show might take.

 

 

Robin's wife, Alison Kinnaird has made great effort to introduce the Uzbeks to the finer points of Scottish Cuisine: Haggis, neeps, tatties, cullen skink, tattie scones, homemade and home-grown rhubarb crumble and ice cream… the list goes on. My contribution consists of Scotch (mutton) pies from Lang’s of Easter road – unquestionably one of the world’s finest butchers – and warm cans of MacEwan’s Export. Quality and strength ladies and gentlemen; it says so on the can. This is all part of the acclimatisation (indoctrination?) process. Unfortunately the football season has just finished in Scotland or we could have sown the seeds for the first Tashkent Hibs supporter’s club: Next time perhaps.


Tashkent Hibs Supporters Club 2005
from left to right:
Khalan, Abdulakhat, Mykhatzjon, Illyas, Akhmadjon, Allyas, Khilbride, Maxim, Rhobjon & Khusan

Monday 16th May
Tomorrow is our first gig but today we are standing atop the Donald Dewar memorial steps leading to the main entrance of the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall for a photo shoot. The BBC, ITV, and Glasgow Evening times are all there along side the inimitable Glasgow public who lavish us with their own brand of repartee. “How much ya wantin fur wan o’ they jaeckets big man?” One local asks me where the boys are from. The response, “Uzbekistan”, is inevitably met with question “ Whar’s Tha’?” to which I cannot help but offer the ever-illuminating reply, “next to Kazakhstan.”


'I had this geezer in the back of me cab the other day...'
Abdulakhat drives Miss Daisy (AKA Akhmadjon)

Tuesday 17th May
Finally we embark on our first concert after days of preparation, meditation, and choi. The Rosehill theatre sits in Whitehaven on the Cumbrian coast in the north west of England. Luckily it is another sunny day as Ewan (the aforementioned 'assistant to the Uzbeks') and I drive the Uzbeks through the rolling hills sprinkled with sheep and majestic wind farms. The latter obviously makes some impression on our Uzbek friends for its sight is met with tutting from the back. The “tutt” seems to accompany sights of great beauty which inspire awe as well as being an expression of disappointment or disdain as it is in the west. Often this tutting accompanies the rather prolific, though entirely justified, swearing which both Ewan and I practice, especially when we have made some navigational error.“Tutt tutt tutt Ewan….bad boy” sings the chorus from the back of the van.
The concert goes swimmingly and the Cumbrians love the Uzbeks so we are on to a winner. So: pizza and a drive back to Scotland.

Wednesday 18th May
Wednesday night and what better venue for the second concert of this ambitious tour than the largest venue of the run, in Glasgow – hereditary home of the Battlefield Band. Tonight we play the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall and ex-battie Murray Munro is running the P.A. Murray is a great engineer: A man of eloquence, integrity, and humour. Living proof that it is possible for all of these qualities to be embodied in a jambo (www.heartsfc.co.uk). Also here tonight is our old pal Kevin Morris, himself the premier promoter of American music in Glasgow (www.fallenangelsclub.com) - so we are guaranteed a good night.
It is a rare pleasure to play such a grand venue and the concert is a great success. All in all a michty night and it is great too to see Colin Hynd who runs the shows here as well as the Celtic Connections festival which runs here in Glasgow for three weeks every January – the world’s largest Celtic music festival.

Thursday 19th May
Much tutting accompanies the breathtaking trip to Portree on the Isle of Skye and the Aros centre – tonight’s venue. This was a star-studded affair: Dr. Angus MacDonald – easily one of the most exciting pipers today; Dougie Pincock – ex-Battlefield Band piper and now director at The National Centre of Excellence in Traditional Music, based in Plockton High School; Louis Barclay – late of the Gordon Highlanders and now professor of piping for Skye schools; Bob Kenyon – king of late-night Gaelic T.V.; Ruiridh MacLeod – Super soundman for Grampian Television; and lest we forget Andrew and Aly MacPherson – ceilidh musicians extraordinaire. Also in attendance were my wife’s family from Heaste – Katy, Callum, Catriona, Grace and Roddy.


Uzbek fuel: Like fine wine, a good fish supper improves with age...

Completely sold out, this was a marvellous show complete with standing ovation. Apparently this has not happened before at Aros: A wee bit electricity through the seats works a treat every time. After the concert we adjourn to the highly civilised Tonguadale hotel - our home for the night – where Eileen Fraser looks after us in sterling fashion with salad, meat, and bevy: All the prime ingredients for a happy Uzbek - and Batty of course..