

'On The Great Silk Road'
UK tour 2005
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Tues
11th May
Today we embark on possibly our most exotic &
bizarre British tour to date for we are, more than
ever before, a touring troupe or circus; five Batties
plus our soundman Rob, augmented by five Uzbek musicians
and two dancers, a translator, three Scottish dancers/musicians
and one 'assistant to the Uzbeks'. This extravaganza
is effectively the return match of our tour in Uzbekistan
in 2002, where we first met all these fantastic musicians
(find the tour notes in the archive),
and has been made possible by grants from the Scottish
Arts Council, the English Arts Council and Visiting
Arts, all coordinated by our manager, Robin Morton.
In
the morning, Alasdair and I pick up the Uzbek musicians
who have just arrived on the overnight train from
London after flying to the U.K. from Tashkent. A beautiful
day, we drive them, singing, through Holyrood park,
bathed in sunshine to Temple for some breakfast, a
photo-shoot, and a recording session. They record
three tracks – in one take of course –
before we take them to their accommodation for a brief
sleep before an afternoon rehearsal and more photos
for the press.
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do
you know 'Lady in Red?' |
The
first few days follow this pattern while we figure
out what to play together. Luckily the weather smiles
on us and we play outside for several days teaching
each other a couple of tunes and drinking mountains
of choi (tea).
Eventually
it becomes Sunday, two days before the first concert,
and the Uzbek dancers Saida and Nargiza have arrived
from Uzbekistan as well as our own dancers –
John, Donal, and Allison, fresh from the Sikorski
School of Dancing and Deportment (“From Rhum
to Rhumba in Five Easy Steps”). This is a kind
of dress rehearsal and gives us a clue as to what
form the show might take.
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Robin's
wife, Alison Kinnaird has made great effort
to introduce the Uzbeks to the finer points
of Scottish Cuisine: Haggis, neeps, tatties,
cullen skink, tattie scones, homemade and home-grown
rhubarb crumble and ice cream… the list
goes on. My contribution consists of Scotch
(mutton) pies from Lang’s of Easter road
– unquestionably one of the world’s
finest butchers – and warm cans of MacEwan’s
Export. Quality and strength ladies and gentlemen;
it says so on the can. This is all part of the
acclimatisation (indoctrination?) process. Unfortunately
the football season has just finished in Scotland
or we could have sown the seeds for the first
Tashkent Hibs supporter’s club: Next time
perhaps.

Tashkent
Hibs Supporters Club 2005
from left to right:
Khalan, Abdulakhat, Mykhatzjon, Illyas, Akhmadjon,
Allyas, Khilbride, Maxim, Rhobjon & Khusan
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Monday
16th May
Tomorrow is our first gig but today we are standing
atop the Donald Dewar memorial steps leading to the
main entrance of the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall for
a photo shoot. The BBC, ITV, and Glasgow Evening times
are all there along side the inimitable Glasgow public
who lavish us with their own brand of repartee. “How
much ya wantin fur wan o’ they jaeckets big man?”
One local asks me where the boys are from. The response,
“Uzbekistan”, is inevitably met with question
“ Whar’s Tha’?” to which I cannot
help but offer the ever-illuminating reply, “next
to Kazakhstan.”
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'I
had this geezer in the back of me cab the other day...'
Abdulakhat drives Miss Daisy (AKA Akhmadjon) |
Tuesday
17th May
Finally we embark on our first concert after days
of preparation, meditation, and choi. The Rosehill
theatre sits in Whitehaven on the
Cumbrian coast in the north west of England. Luckily
it is another sunny day as Ewan (the aforementioned
'assistant to the Uzbeks') and I drive the Uzbeks
through the rolling hills sprinkled with sheep and
majestic wind farms. The latter obviously makes some
impression on our Uzbek friends for its sight is met
with tutting from the back. The “tutt”
seems to accompany sights of great beauty which inspire
awe as well as being an expression of disappointment
or disdain as it is in the west. Often this tutting
accompanies the rather prolific, though entirely justified,
swearing which both Ewan and I practice, especially
when we have made some navigational error.“Tutt
tutt tutt Ewan….bad boy” sings the chorus
from the back of the van.
The
concert goes swimmingly and the Cumbrians love the
Uzbeks so we are on to a winner. So: pizza and a drive
back to Scotland.
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Wednesday
18th May
Wednesday night and what better venue for the second
concert of this ambitious tour than the largest venue
of the run, in Glasgow – hereditary
home of the Battlefield Band. Tonight we play the Glasgow
Royal Concert Hall and ex-battie Murray
Munro is running the P.A. Murray is a great engineer:
A man of eloquence, integrity, and humour. Living proof
that it is possible for all of these qualities to be
embodied in a jambo (www.heartsfc.co.uk).
Also here tonight is our old pal Kevin Morris, himself
the premier promoter of American music in Glasgow (www.fallenangelsclub.com)
- so we are guaranteed a good night.
It is a rare pleasure to play such a grand venue and
the concert is a great success. All in all a michty
night and it is great too to see Colin Hynd who runs
the shows here as well as the Celtic Connections festival
which runs here in Glasgow for three weeks every January
– the world’s largest Celtic music festival.
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Thursday
19th May
Much tutting accompanies the breathtaking trip to Portree
on the Isle of Skye and the Aros centre – tonight’s
venue. This was a star-studded affair: Dr. Angus MacDonald
– easily one of the most exciting pipers today;
Dougie Pincock – ex-Battlefield Band piper and
now director at The National Centre of Excellence in
Traditional Music, based in Plockton High School; Louis
Barclay – late of the Gordon Highlanders and now
professor of piping for Skye schools; Bob Kenyon –
king of late-night Gaelic T.V.; Ruiridh MacLeod –
Super soundman for Grampian Television; and lest we
forget Andrew and Aly MacPherson – ceilidh musicians
extraordinaire. Also in attendance were my wife’s
family from Heaste – Katy, Callum, Catriona, Grace
and Roddy. |
Uzbek
fuel: Like fine wine, a good fish supper improves
with age... |
Completely
sold out, this was a marvellous show complete with
standing ovation. Apparently this has not happened
before at Aros: A wee bit electricity through the
seats works a treat every time. After the concert
we adjourn to the highly civilised Tonguadale hotel
- our home for the night – where Eileen Fraser
looks after us in sterling fashion with salad, meat,
and bevy: All the prime ingredients for a happy Uzbek
- and Batty of course..

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