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USA Oct/Nov 2005

Thursday 27th October

These days we seem to more often than not make New York City our first stop when we come to the United states of America and as such it serves as our stop-over to wherever else we might be going: The Singapore to our eventual Australia; the jet-lag recuperation lounge where we can expunge all impurities incurred during the trans-Atlantic voyage which normally leaves one knackered and incapable of either coherent thought or speech. Yes, after just one brief night in the city that never sleeps we are rendered as lucid as the day is long.

This is young Mr. O’Donnell’s first visit to Manhattan so it is for myself and Alasdair to act as his guide through the myriad of cultural activities at our disposal. Although we have greeted this city on numerous occasions, we can scarcely remember where anything is but our faith in eventual oblivion is still strong for this small detail of almost no orientation has never before hampered our enjoyment of this crown in the jewels of America. So each night in New York tends to start in the 11th street tavern for the address is partially imbedded within its very title. I say partially for we always arrive by taxi some blocks away and can only find our route by finding John Casey’s rubber stamp shop and tonight is no exception. You never know who you will meet in John’s specialist shop: Last time it was the best Korean foot masseuse on the street (allegedly) and this time we are not disappointed as John’s tip top customer of the day is no other than “Pop Pistol”- one of the lassies appearing in the Starshine Burlesque at Rififi (starshineburlesque.com). Pop Pistol – not her real name – has just nipped in to John’s shop for a rubber stamp bearing a pursed pair of lips to be used as proof of admission for the audience at the show – these are the nuts and bolts of art. These women are a great inspiration to us; especially Alasdair who puts great effort into refining his bubble dance.


I see you baby...
We eventually make it to The 11th street which is at 11th and avenue A – I include this mostly for my own future reference. There is a great session here every Sunday but as it is hursday, we are just in for a few pints with our old chum and racing guru, Kenny. Afterwards we head off for a tune at Paddy Reilly’s with guitarist Fionn O Lochlainn and a great fiddle player called Sean whose surname has been momentarily lost to my A to Z along with the specificity of our location. To top off a great evening, the one and only Joannie Madden – Flautist/whistle player extraordinaire and boss of Cherish the Ladies (www.cherishtheladies.com) joins us for a few shandies so a great start to any month in America: This bodes well.

Friday, 28th October

After a quick sleep in the luxurious Groce Mansions of the upper east side, it is off to work and the first stop of our tour ; The Towne Crier in Pawling, N.Y. We have played here many times and it is great place to see music: After our visit will be shows by Odetta, David Lindley, and Tom Russell among others. It is always a great pleasure to see Phil , Bill and all the staff but also in attendance tonight are Alan’s Cousins; Steven, Jamie and Ellen; our accountant Jules; and our inimitable manager Robin Morton. A great night as always.




Robin Morton: musician, singer,
collector, producer,
transmogrifacator

Saturday 29th October

Whether it is the effects of jet lag and Anchor Steam beer or the approaching of All Saints eve, things are beginning to get strange and Sean bears witness to the stuff of Romanian legend and Hammer horror films of the last century. Yes folks, right here in the wilds of the Henry Van Motel in Brewster, New York, Sean O’Donnell emerges innocently from his morning shower only to see before his very eyes, the actual and complete Transmogrification of our manager Robin Morton into a dog: A rather sizeable Labrador Retriever to boot!

Luckily Sean sees the funny side of the supernatural and We all head into Brewster for breakfast. Oddly enough, Robin’s driving is much better as a dog.

After Breakfast we head up to Lebanon, New Hampshire for a concert at the Opera house – a beautifully restored building, which is part of the old town hall. The reception is great from both crew and public and tonight is one of two concerts on this tour where Jim Malcolm (jimmalcolm.com) is sharing the bill with us. Jim is a great singer, songwriter, guitar and mouthie-player from Perth who is perhaps best known as the principal singer with the Old Blind Dogs. We have done several festivals with Jim over the past couple of years and it is always great to see him. After the show we adjourn to a brewery pub next to our hotel where we hear a local blues band while the fellow next to me regales me with stories of great fights he has had while working for the U.S. military at Holy loch near Dunoon on the river Clyde.

 

Sunday 30th October

After an early breakfast with the University of Syracuse ladies Orangemen tennis team – You have to see a lady Orangeman to believe it - we head off for an early flight to Denver Colorado and a gig at Swallow Hill. On each successive flight in America, Big Rob, our sound engineer, drinks ever increasing amounts of bloody Mary mix which I believe to be the cause of an unusual mutation or perhaps metamorphosis to his entire being. I cannot quite put my finger on it now but he is starting to look like someone familiar...

Anyway, We have played here many times but today’s travel plans afford us no opportunity to investigate the delights of Denver. The concert, however, was great and all of the Swallow Hill Mob look after us splendidly.


caption schmaption.

How did Darth Vader know what Luke was getting for Xmas? Because he felt his presents.
(you're fired - ed.)

Monday 31st October

Today is Halloween and we have a day off, however we have before us an epic drive to Durango, Colorado at the opposite corner of the state. First, however, we stop for breakfast at an Irish theme bar situated in one of the newer suburbs on the fringes of Denver. In keeping with the Halloween theme, This bar/restaurant has emblazoned on one of its interior walls the story of the celts who of course came from a land far, far away, a long, long time ago to another land far, far away not quite so long ago. This mural depicts this story with all of the Hollywood style of the now famous cinematic moment at the beginning of the first Star Wars film: Indeed just about any science fiction story created since. “A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away blah blah blah…” This prompts the meditation from Sean: (cue Heavy breathing) “Oi’m yer daddy Luke” and of course that great catchphrase omitted from most John Wayne films: “Stickin’ oit, Pilgrim”

 

The scenery on this voyage is truly spectacular – high desert and mountain passes. Once in Durango, we adjourn to the Carver brewing company for a hallowe’en bash of some magnitude featuring the red hot sounds of a local bluegrass band whom we are informed have been playing together since infancy. Americans go in for this holiday in a big way and ther are a great cast of characters present: A three-hundred pound baby, Gumby, various witches and devils, men made up to be women, four guys dressed as Steeleye Span, a few bearded ladies, and plenty of 1970’s retro-kitsch.This is our kinda town pilgrim.

”I’m Gumby dammit!”

Tuesday 1st November.

This morning we have a live radio interview with Stasia Lanier at KSUT FM This proves to be not only enjoyable, but valuable for publicising tonight’s concert in Farmington, New Mexico.

(We've got a couple of mp3 excerpts from this interview here - sorry; we've had to cut some of the songs & tunes short - it's probably only worth trying to listen to this if you've got broadband clip1 ..clip2)

The concert is great – big hall, loads of people, and we're well looked after by Linann and her crew.


Wednesday 2nd November

Again we have two days to get to our next destination and on our departure from Farmington into the great deserts of New Mexico we witness one of the finest juxtapositions of Americana I have seen for some time. For those of you whom have never been to the rural southwest, the countryside is littered with superstores dealing in erotica and ammunition in variable proportions depending on the particular brand of “love” favoured by that county. These outposts tend to stand like monoliths against this breathtaking backdrop of seemingly empty, painted deserts and as such are optimum advertising opportunities. Massive billboards rise out of these shops, coaxing the weary traveller from the road so the he (or I suppose, she) might investigate the charms within. Well this particular shop had one such super-placard in two halves: On one side: “XXX Adult Superstore. DVD’s, Toys, Lingerie (plus sizes)” while on the opposing side of this two part behemoth was the classic, iconic representation of that most famous bearded man of Galilee with outstretched hand proclaiming “Jesus is Watching You”. Unfortunately we have no photograph of this as the camera had gone temporarily blind.

 

 
Once out of the town, we make the long drive through the Navajo Reservation. Words cannot do justice to this majestic landscape so here are some pictures:

 

 

For our night off we stop in Show Low, Arizona. This town is named after a game show and as such is not unique in the United States. Some years ago we played in the similarly named Truth or Consequences, New Mexico. Given this precedent, on wonders what other townships lie on the horizon: Jeopardy, Wisconsin; The Price is right, Ohio; Blankety-Blank, Lancashire; Going for Gold, Luxembourg….


After a few aperitifs in the bar watching Las Americas v. Valez in the Liberatadores cup – this is the latin American version of the European Champions League - the La Fiesta restaurant in Show Low provides for us one of the best Mexican meals we have had for some time. All in all a mighty day off.

 

Thursday 3rd November.

As you can tell by our photographs, we are all avid tanning kings so after a quick top-up in the “One Tan Banana Tanning Salon” (there’s only one tan banana, one tan banaa na, there’s only one tan banaa na) it is off through the Apache reservation to Tuscon, Arizona and our next concert at the Berger performing Arts Center. Luckily it is down hill all the way for Rob’s petrol gauge is showing empty. So he free-wheels the thirty or so miles to the next petrol station.This is part of the new, Green Batties ethos: We will start all our tours from the highest point in the continent and plan the gigs in a downhill order as to emit less greenhouse gasses. We could sell biodegradable cd’s which will have to be re-bought every six months. The possibilities are endless...


The all New Green Rob: half man half spaniel