
FEAR
AND LOATHING IN THE HIGHLANDS...
(disclaimer:
my attorney advises the public that all views expressed
here are in no way whatsoever connected to the webmaster
etc.)
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Well
hello sweet cheeks. |
Ardross
& Ullapool
Another great new village hall, we play for an appreciative
crowd including my Mother-in-law and Auntie Jean who
have both come up from the Black Isle. After the show
We get a late pint in the hotel in Alness and meet
a painter-decorator who used to be a session drummer
in London with Leo Sayer (spelling?) amongst others.
Another late breakfast – 9a.m. Alasdair nane
– before the mammoth, one – hour drive
to Ullapool; gateway to Lewis. Alasdair has never
been to Ullapool when not in transit either to or
from his native island of Lewis so we had to anchor
ourselves to the Seaforth bar for most of the day
to ensure that he did not accidentally get on the
boat out of habit.
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The
concert in the MacPhail Centre was excellent(of course)
and after clearing up we returned to the Seaforth
for at the stroke of midnight Alasdair was to turn
into a twenty-one-year-old pumpkin. Luckily this event
will involve no trauma for Alasdair as he has been
twenty-one in America for some time now. But at least
now it’s official! In fact, He will soon be
thirty over there. At the Seaforth we imbibe alongside
oodles of tourists, the Ullapool pipe band and Atilla
the fish farmer who came all the way down from Kinlichbervie
to see the gig. The bar band were great: The drummer
sang and played the moothie and the bassist doubled
up the guitar player’s solos with a kazoo. I
fear that these subtle aspects of their craft were
lost on the lusty dancing horde, itself a soup of
feremones, locals, tourists, and alcohol. Yum yum.
En route to the Hotel after closing time, we meet
Rob’s daughter Jessie who was up from Yorkshire
on Holiday: So all roads do lead to Ullapool.
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Stirling
We all missed breakfast before embarking on the quest
to spin out the three-hour drive to Stirling. Pat
and Alasdair chose to do this by dining in Inverness
while Rob, Alan and myself stopped en route both at
the Corrieshalloch gorge and the falls of Rogie. The
Tolbooth in Stirling is a great and busy venue housed
in the old courthouse in the middle of Stirling. One
of the Technical crew told us that when they cleared
out the old cells during the conversion of the building,
they found two skeletons left from bygone days….
when remand wasn’t just for Christmas. The building
was indeed haunted until an exorcism was performed
but one cannot help but think that perhaps the Tolbooth
is not the same without its ghoulies. This is still
Alasdair’s birthday but we are unable to celebrate
properly as we make our way back to Edinburgh for
the next day’s early flight and the next stop
on our grand tour of the highlands and island –
Exeter down in England.
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With
Rob, our soundman and photographer
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Exeter
Sunday morning and we fly to Bristol whereupon we
drive to Exeter. Exeter has always been a good place
for us - indeed some of the live tracks on our most
recent cd were recorded there. This time we are going
as part of the Exeter festival with other such luminaries
as Capercaillie and Capt. Beefheart’s magic
band though unfortunately not on the same day as that
would have been a great game of pool. One of the promoters,
Steve Chilcott, is an old friend of the band who booked
the Battlefield Band in 1979 at Manchester University
when Pat was first in the band. Since then we have
done numerous gigs for Steve around the southwest
of England which have all been great.
When
we arrive at Steve’s village – Stoke Canon
just outside of Exeter – we immediately immerse
ourselves in the local culture and take Steve and
his wife, Dawn and their dogs to the local rub a dub
dub for a pint of bitter in the beer garden. The concert
at St. George’s Hall is great and after a long
day is ended quietly as it is Sunday night and not
much is open.
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Fried
breakfast at Tiffanys.
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I did search and found a place just behind the hall.
A square brick box with a tawdry neon sign reading
“Hustlers”. Now I am not sure if this
place is a pool hall or a “knocking shop”
and as I had only adequate funds for the former I
desisted. Plus, I decided some years ago to avoid
boozers whose name consists of a plural in this form:
Neigbours, Belters, Gabber Jabbers, Bammers, etc.
One such pub directly across from the Leith Police
station was rather charmingly called “Slammers”
(it was across from the “slammer” - get
it?) and although today it has been transformed into
one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh, The Compass,
where various Battlefield Band alumni are to be found
as often as possible. When it bore the Slammers moniker
it exuded a mild aura of menace. At any rate, we never
made it to Hustlers.
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Monday
morning’s fry up was particularly good as the
eggs were home grown and the bacon was made from a
real pig. Also the rather groovy old couple who ran
the house had lots of witches hanging from the ceiling
and walls and the added bonus of a Rolls Royce in
the garage. All of these things contribute to the
generally good “ju-ju” which makes for
a better plate of fried food. So today we drive up
to Bristol and fly back to Edinburgh for a quick bite
and a rake of pints in the Oxford bar.
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