
FEAR
AND LOATHING IN THE HIGHLANDS...
(disclaimer:
my attorney advises the public that all views expressed
here are in no way whatsoever connected to the webmaster
etc.)
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Lochinver
Another couple of days at Temple before the next run
of shows. I am Sure that if my Grandmother were alive
she would be proud or at least surprised that I spent
so much time going to Temple, especially outwith the
Sabbath.
Our next gig is in Lochinver
way up in Sutherland so to break up the journey I
take Pat and Alasdair to Newtonmore in Badenoch to
stay with my old pipe band chum Chris Thomson - a
great piper from Laggan with whom I played in the
Gas board pipe band some years ago. Chris and his
wife Shirlie run a superb four-star guest house (Coig
na Shee) on the Fort William road in Newtonmore so
our stay was exceptional especially after a few pints
with the local pipe band and tea and a few drams in
the kitchen. Chris unfortunately had to get up at
6a.m. to make breakfast for all of the other guests
though he was gracious enough to cook for us much
later at the luxurious time of 10.30. Alasdair still
missed it.
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A nice photo, hopefully not a hundred
miles from Lochinver...
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Lochinver
itself is an astonishing location: A fishing port
in a bay on the northwest coast of mainland Scotland.
While we were setting up the P.A. Pat Spotted a gaggle
of French fishermen reading the poster. So Pat, a
fluent French speaker, immediately struck up a conversation
in French with these fellows, asking them if they
were coming to the show. As it happens they were only
in town for two hours before their boat was due to
leave, so this was impossible but I cannot help but
think that they must have been at least slightly surprised
that some guy off the street would just start speaking
to them in their own language. Hopefully they will
return home thinking that everyone in Lochinver speaks
French.
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| Before
the concert I nipped down to the hotel by the pier
for a quick pint where I met some extremely pished
fishermen from Peterhead whose boat was in for repairs.
One of them told me that he used to be a lighting
engineer and roadie for the band Joe Public who had
once done a tour supporting Orchestral Maneuvers in
the Dark back in the 1980’s. But, the highlight
of the concert for me was when Alasdair introduced
me to play a solo on the pipes: “Mike
is a great piper, instrumental in re-introducing old
tunes, he is also a great bass and guitar player who
listens to all kinds of different music and all of
these diverse influences come together to make one
big… hairy….. whole.”
The
concert was great and after we returned to the Culag
pier bar après concert with the promoter Alex
Dickson and a few others. He is another on of these
guys who puts on great gigs way out in the country.
Closing time was prompt;12:45.
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Strontian
Another late fry-up – 9a.m. - And it is off to
Strontian.
Before the concert we have time for a couple of pints
and a bit more appallingly played pool in the local
hotel. One of the boys in the pub informs me that the
last time Battlefield Band played in Strontian –
eighteen years previous – the band had managed
to drive the van off the road and all the locals who
helped to return it to the road were given that which
all highland men seek: Free drink for the evening. Upon
learning this we have no recourse but to post big Rob,
armed with a shinty stick, at the van for the duration
of the gig as a precaution against any locals seeking
to recreate this dilemma by throwing our van into one
of the nearby fields. Alan assures me that on that occasion,
it was Murray Munro and not he who drove the van off
the road. He does so emphatically as Alan’s own
catalogue of van adventures over the years is long and
illustrious.
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Tonight’s
show is at the Sunart
Centre and we have a support act:
Six of the young Ceilidh Trail
folk who have recently finished the Feis Lochaber
and are being taken on a tour of twenty-five gigs
around the north. The Feis movement is basically concerned
with teaching “camps” based in different
parts of the country where people have the opportunity
to learn from great teachers and of course play together
intensively. Former Battlefield Band members Iain
Macdonald and Dougie Pincock often teach at these
events. Some of these kids come from the Plockton
High School centre of excellence in traditional music
of which Dougie is the chief. The kids play great
and it would be interesting to see them after twenty-five
gigs.
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Mike Katz - The part of his sums |
As
well as our concert there was to be a wedding the
next day so the pub was heaving with interesting people:
I met Dave MacKay, himself a piper who plays drums
with the world famouse Fergie MacDonald dance band
from Acharacle; There was a couple from Tasmania who
had re-jigged their holiday to come back to Strontian
to see us; and a Deer stalker who had come from Knoydart
to see us. There are no roads to Knoydart so you either
take a boat seven miles or hike thirty through the
hills. To meet all of these people was very flattering.
Another late breakfast - 9 a.m. This was quite a good
one: More home-grown eggs and black pudding with the
big pieces of lard in – mmmm.
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HRH
Alasdair White. Doesn't
look a day over 21
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Iona
via Mull
We are making our way to the island of Iona where
St Columba introduced Christianity to Scotland. You
can decide for yourself who won. Rob and I drive to
Lochaline to get the ferry to Fishnish. As it is only
11:00a.m. and Rob has never been to Mull, we decide
to take a detour through Tobermory (i.e. a pint at
the Mishnish) and on to the west coast road - sixty
miles of single track road to Fionnport where we get
the Iona ferry. Once across we meet the rest of the
band and Alasdair’s family – Half of Iona.
As his mother, father, aunties, uncles, and cousins
are all here, tonight becomes Alasdair’s birthday
once again complete with cakes, whisky, tea, and gifts.
I suppose that this is his “Official”
birthday which makes him something like the Queen:
The queen of Lewis perhaps. No that doesn’t
work.
We
dine lavishly in the Grant family’s restaurant
next to the pier: Masses of Fresh prawns, grilled
sole, Lobster, crab steak and porter. The promoter,
Judith Jardine, single-handedly puts on great gigs
in the village hall and ours was no exception. Due
to its physical beauty and historical significance,
Iona is a mecca for tourists and this is reflected
in the cosmopolitan nature of the crowd, locals, Americans.
English, Spanish, Oystercatchers, Auks, etc.
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After
the show it's drams and tea next door with Alasdair’s
family. Incidentally, Alasdair’s uncle Charlie
runs the boat trips to the island of Staffa and Fingal’s
cave – one of Scotland’s natural wonders.
A trip worth taking. Anyway, we retire late on. Tomorrow
is the journey home for us and Fionnaport gala day
for everybody else on Iona. This comprises fishing
boat races, fishing competitions, and a dance, so
it attracts folk from all over – even Tiree.
As we mop up the remnants of our very last fry-up
of this tour, the locals are making ready for a huge
day out. Alasdair heads north to Taransay to teach
for a week and we head to get the ferries home until
we meet again for our next gig in that most outer
island – Venice, and a festival in Italy. |

all
photos, except the ones he's in, which is sort of obvious,
were taken by Rob Van Sante |